This guide is for general information only. It does not replace your vehicle's owner manual or manufacturer support. EVcourse accepts no liability for actions taken based on this content. When in doubt, contact Smart or a qualified technician.

Troubleshooting

Smart #1 Charging Troubleshooting

Updated March 2026

Smart #1 Charging Specs

Approximate values. Check your own vehicle specs, as they vary by variant, model year, and market.

Battery (useable): 62 kWh
Max DC charging: 150 kW
Max AC charging: 22 kW
10-80% DC time: 30 min
DC connector: CCS2
WLTP range: 440 km
Heat pump: standard
Architecture: 400V

Smart #1 Pro Plus Charger Will Not Start a Session

You plugged the connector into your Smart #1, but the charger is not responding. No charging indicator, no session starting, nothing happening. This is almost always a charger-side or authentication issue, not a problem with the car. Let us work through it.

Quick Diagnosis

Step 1

Is the charger screen on and showing a ready state?

Check if the charger display is lit and showing "Available" or a similar ready message.

Symptoms

The CCS2 or Type 2 connector is in but nothing happens
The charger screen shows an error or stays on the welcome screen
The Smart #1 dashboard does not show a charging session
You hear the connector lock but charging does not begin
The charging app shows the charger as available even though you are plugged in

Why This Happens

Authentication not completed first

Most public chargers need you to authenticate with an RFID card or app before the charger will respond to the car. If you plug in without authenticating, the session does not start.

CCS2 connector not fully seated

The CCS2 connector is heavy and needs to be pushed firmly into the Smart #1's charge port until you hear it click and lock. A loose connection will prevent communication between the car and charger.

Car is in a fault state

Occasionally, the Smart #1's charging system can enter a fault state after a previously interrupted session. Locking and unlocking the car or restarting the infotainment system can reset this.

Charger communication failure

DC fast chargers negotiate with the car before power flows. If the charger's communication module is faulty, it will seem to connect but never start delivering power.

Charge port latch stuck or frozen

In cold weather, the charge port latch on the Smart #1 can freeze. If the latch does not engage properly, the car will not allow charging to start as a safety measure.

What to Do

1

Authenticate with the charger first

Tap your RFID card, open the charging network app, or use contactless payment on the charger. Wait for the charger screen to confirm the session before plugging in.
2

Remove and reinsert the connector

Unlock the connector (press the button on the charger handle), remove it fully, wait 10 seconds, then push it back in firmly until it clicks and locks.
3

Lock and unlock the car

Use the key fob or Smart app to lock the car, wait 15 seconds, then unlock it. This can reset the charging system if it is in a fault state.
4

Check the charge port for ice or debris

Open the charge port flap on the rear left of the Smart #1 and inspect it. In winter, warm the port gently with your hands or use lukewarm water if ice is present. Never use hot water.
5

Restart the infotainment system

Press and hold the power button on the center screen for 10 seconds to restart the system. Wait for it to boot fully, then try plugging in again.
6

Try a different charger

If the session still will not start, the charger is likely faulty. Move to another charger at the station or a different location.

Prevention Tips

Always authenticate with the charger before inserting the connector
Push the CCS2 connector firmly until you hear and feel the locking click
In cold weather, pre-warm the car by turning on climate before unplugging at home
Keep the charge port area clean and free of ice during winter
Save the charger network's support number in your phone for quick access

Smart #1 Pro Plus Charging Session Ends Unexpectedly

You left your Smart #1 charging and came back to find it stopped well before 100%. Or it cut out after just a few minutes on a fast charger. This is usually caused by charge limits, charger timeouts, or a communication glitch. Here is how to figure out what happened.

Quick Diagnosis

Step 1

Did the charger show an error code?

Check the charger screen for any error message or code.

Symptoms

Charging stops at a specific percentage like 80% every time
DC session ends after a few minutes with no error message
The charger shows session complete but the car is not full
AC overnight charging stops in the middle of the night
The Smart #1 app shows the car is no longer charging

Why This Happens

Charge limit set to 80%

The Smart #1 has a configurable charge limit. If you set it to 80% for daily use, the car will stop at that level even on a road trip. Check the limit in the infotainment system or the Smart app.

Charger session time limit

Many public DC chargers limit sessions to 60 or 90 minutes. If you are charging from low, you may not reach your target before the session ends. Some networks also add idle fees that trigger a disconnect.

Battery temperature protection

The Smart #1 has a heat pump and active thermal management, but if the battery gets too warm during fast charging, the car may reduce speed to near zero or stop entirely. This is a safety feature.

Communication error between car and charger

DC fast charging requires continuous handshake communication. Any interruption, whether from a charger firmware bug or cable connection issue, will end the session immediately.

Power grid fluctuation at the charger

If the electricity supply to the charger dips or fluctuates, the charger will stop the session as a safety measure. This is outside both your control and the car's control.

What to Do

1

Check your charge limit setting

On the Smart #1's center screen, go to Vehicle Settings, then Charging. Check the charge limit. If it is set to 80%, increase it to 100% when you need a full charge.
2

Check the charger session limit

Look at the charger screen or network app for session time limits. If the charger has a 60-minute limit, you may need to restart the session to continue charging.
3

Unplug and restart the session

Remove the connector, wait 30 seconds, then plug back in and authenticate again. This resets the communication link.
4

Check battery temperature in the app

The Smart app can show battery status. If the battery is very warm, let it cool for 10-15 minutes before restarting the session.
5

Move to a different charger

If the same charger keeps cutting out, it likely has a fault. Try a different unit at the same station or go to a nearby station.

Prevention Tips

Adjust your charge limit before road trips so the car charges past 80% when needed
Use the Smart app to monitor charging remotely so you know immediately if it stops
Use battery preconditioning through navigation to keep the battery in the optimal temperature range
Choose chargers with no strict session time limits when you need a full charge
Report unreliable chargers through the network app to help other drivers

Smart #1 Pro Plus Payment Failed at Charging Station

You are ready to charge your Smart #1, but the payment will not go through. The RFID card does not register, the app gives an error, or your bank card gets declined. This is a charger and payment issue, not a car issue. Here is what to do.

Quick Diagnosis

Step 1

Are you using the network's own app?

Using the charging network's own app is usually the cheapest and most reliable option.

Symptoms

RFID card tap does nothing at the charger
Charging app shows a payment or authorization error
Contactless bank card is declined
Charger displays a payment error code
Session starts but stops immediately with a billing message

Why This Happens

Wrong network or incompatible payment method

Europe has dozens of charging networks. Your RFID card or app may not be accepted on every network. Some chargers only work with their own branded cards or specific roaming partners.

Pre-authorization hold exceeds available balance

Many charging networks place a pre-authorization hold of 50-80 EUR on your card before charging starts. If your available balance is below this, the payment fails even if the actual charge costs much less.

Bank blocking the transaction

Some banks flag EV charging payments as unusual activity, especially when the charger operator is in another country. This triggers an automatic block on your card.

Charger card reader not working

The NFC reader or card terminal on the charger may be physically damaged or offline. The screen may look normal while the payment hardware is not functioning.

Expired or unverified payment method in app

If your credit card stored in the charging app has expired, or if you never completed the verification step after signing up, payments will be rejected.

What to Do

1

Check which payment methods the charger accepts

Look at the stickers and screen on the charger for accepted networks, apps, and card types. If your payment method is not listed, you need to try something else.
2

Switch to a different payment method

Try a different RFID card, a different charging app, or a contactless bank card. Having multiple options is essential for public charging in Europe.
3

Check your available balance

Open your banking app and verify you have at least 80 EUR available to cover the pre-authorization hold. If not, use a card with a higher balance.
4

Hold the RFID card steadily

Place the RFID card flat against the reader and hold it for 2-3 seconds. Do not tap and remove quickly. Some readers are slow to respond.
5

Cancel and retry the session

If a previous attempt is stuck, cancel it through the app first. Wait a minute, then start a fresh session from scratch.
6

Try the other charger unit

If the payment hardware is faulty on one unit, the neighboring charger at the same station may work fine.

Prevention Tips

Register with at least two major charging networks before you need them
Keep a roaming app like Chargemap or Octopus Electroverse as a backup for unfamiliar networks
Tell your bank you regularly charge your EV to prevent automatic blocks on charging payments
Update expired cards in all your charging apps promptly
Carry a physical RFID card as backup when app-based payments are unreliable

Smart #1 Pro Plus Charging Slower Than Expected Speed

Your Smart #1 should charge at up to 150 kW on DC and 22 kW on AC, but the numbers on the screen tell a different story. Maybe you are stuck at 40 kW on a fast charger, or your wallbox is only delivering 7 kW. Here is what is going on and how to fix it.

Quick Diagnosis

Step 1

Is your battery above 80%?

Charging slows down significantly above 80% to protect battery health. This is normal.

Symptoms

DC fast charging well below the 150 kW maximum
AC charging stuck at 7 or 11 kW instead of 22 kW
Charging speed drops sharply after 50-60% state of charge
The dashboard shows lower power than the charger rating
Charging from 10% to 80% takes much longer than the advertised 30 minutes

Why This Happens

Battery too cold or too hot

The Smart #1 has battery preconditioning, but it needs to be activated. If the battery is below 15C or above 40C, the car limits DC charging power significantly. Use the preconditioning feature through the Smart app or navigation.

State of charge above 60%

The Smart #1's 62 kWh NMC battery starts reducing DC charging speed above 60%. Above 80%, it may drop below 50 kW. This is normal and protects the battery.

AC charger does not support 22 kW

The Smart #1 supports 22 kW three-phase AC charging, which is faster than most competitors. But this only works if your wallbox or AC station supports 22 kW (32A, three-phase). Most home wallboxes are 11 kW.

Charger not delivering rated power

Many 150 kW chargers share power between two stalls. If someone is charging next to you, you may only get 75 kW. Some older 50 kW chargers are also common and will feel slow for the Smart #1.

Preconditioning not activated

The Smart #1 can precondition the battery before you arrive at a DC charger, but only if you set your destination using the built-in navigation. Without preconditioning, cold weather charging starts slow and stays slow.

What to Do

1

Use navigation to activate preconditioning

Set the DC charger as your destination in the Smart #1's built-in navigation. This activates battery preconditioning, warming or cooling the battery to the ideal temperature before you arrive.
2

Check your state of charge

If you are above 60%, the slower speed is expected. For the fastest DC charging, arrive between 10-20% and charge to 80%.
3

Verify the charger's actual output

Check the charger display for its rated power. If it says 50 kW, that is your maximum regardless of the Smart #1's 150 kW capability. Look for chargers rated 150 kW or higher.
4

Check if the charger is shared

If another car is using the adjacent connector on the same charger unit, you may be sharing power. Move to a charger with no other user if possible.
5

For AC, verify three-phase connection

To get 22 kW AC, your wallbox must be wired for three-phase at 32A. Check with your electrician. If you only have single-phase, the maximum is about 7.4 kW.
6

Try a different charger

If speeds are still low after checking everything, the charger may be degraded. Try another charger at the same station or a different location.

Prevention Tips

Always use the built-in navigation to a fast charger to activate battery preconditioning
Plan stops to arrive between 10-20% for maximum DC charging speed
Install a 22 kW three-phase wallbox at home to take full advantage of the Smart #1's AC speed
Avoid charging above 80% on road trips unless you need the range
Check charger power ratings in your charging app before driving to a station

Smart #1 Pro Plus Wrong Connector or Charging Plug

You are at a charger and the connector does not fit your Smart #1, or you are not sure which cable to grab. The Smart #1 uses CCS2 for DC fast charging and Type 2 for AC charging. The charge port is on the rear left of the car. Here is how to get the right plug every time.

Quick Diagnosis

Step 1

Do you need fast charging (DC)?

DC fast charging is for quick top-ups during trips (usually 20-40 minutes). For overnight or workplace charging, AC is fine.

Symptoms

The plug you picked up does not fit the charge port
You see multiple cables at the charger and are unsure which to use
The connector went in but the car does not recognize it
You plugged in a CHAdeMO connector by mistake
AC charging works fine but you cannot figure out DC fast charging

Why This Happens

Picked up the CHAdeMO connector

Many older DC chargers have both CHAdeMO and CCS2 cables. CHAdeMO has a round shape with a lever. CCS2 is the European standard with a flat upper section and two round pins below. The Smart #1 only uses CCS2.

Using a Type 1 cable at an AC station

Some AC stations have both Type 1 and Type 2 cables. Type 1 is smaller with five pins and a latch on top. The Smart #1 needs Type 2, which is wider with seven pins.

Trying to use a domestic cable for 22 kW charging

The Smart #1 supports 22 kW AC charging, but only with a proper three-phase Type 2 connection. A portable charger plugged into a household outlet will only deliver 2-3 kW.

Connector orientation wrong

The CCS2 connector has a specific orientation. The wider flat section goes on top, the two DC pins go at the bottom. Forcing it in the wrong way risks damaging the port.

What to Do

1

Identify the right connector

For DC fast charging, grab the CCS2 cable (labeled CCS or Combo 2). It has a flat rectangular top with two large round pins below. For AC charging, use Type 2, which is just the top section.
2

Check the charger labels

Every charger labels its cables. Look for CCS2, CCS, or Combo 2 for DC. Avoid CHAdeMO (round with a release lever). For AC stations, look for Type 2.
3

Align and insert gently

Open the charge port flap on the rear left of the Smart #1. Hold the CCS2 connector with the flat section facing up and push it straight in. Do not twist or angle it.
4

For 22 kW AC, verify the wallbox

To benefit from the Smart #1's 22 kW AC capability, you need a three-phase 32A wallbox with a Type 2 connection. Check with your installer if you are not getting 22 kW at home.
5

Bring your own Type 2 cable

Some AC charging stations do not have an attached cable. Keep a Type 2 cable in the car for these situations. The cable should be rated for at least 22 kW (32A, three-phase) to match the Smart #1's capability.

Prevention Tips

Remember: CCS2 for DC fast charging, Type 2 for AC on the Smart #1
Keep a 22 kW-rated Type 2 cable in the car for AC stations without attached cables
Never force a connector into the port. If it does not slide in, check the type and orientation
Use a charging app to check which connector types are available at a station before you arrive
The Smart #1 charge port is on the rear left, so park accordingly at charging stations

Related scenarios

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